Friday, November 8, 2013

Time for a small history lesson. Maybe you noticed that there are mosques in my pictures of Kazan. You probably don't think of mosques and Islam when you think of Russia; I know I didn't. Russia, however, is never as simple as it first seems. There are many different religions practiced in Russia, although Christianity is the major religion and the de facto official religion. Kazan, however, is located in Tatarstan, a region that is still heavily influenced by the Muslim heritage of its Tatar residents.

Kazan was a center of power for the Golden Horde until the Horde's demise in the 15th Century, and it then became the center of the Kazan Khanate--a Muslim entity. The Khanate was conquered by Ivan the Terrible's forces in the 16th Century, and most of the Muslim Tatar residents were killed or converted to Christianity. But Tatar culture remained, and mosques were even built under the reign of Catherine the Great.

Tatar culture visibly differs from Russian culture. Islam plays a role, and it isn't uncommon to see women wearing head coverings. Mosques are also dotted around the city, although their calls to prayer are much, much quieter that the ones I heard when I was in Istanbul (you can actually get a good night's sleep in Kazan!). Tatars have special traditions for weddings, and they have their own cuisine, which I discovered I like a lot more than Russian food. Tatar cuisine has a lot of savory combinations of roasted meat, spices, and vegetables, and it is all followed by fresh tandoori bread. The food actually has flavor!

Kazan is just one of several centers of Islam in Russia. The Caucuses are another region dominated by Islam, and, increasingly, Moscow is becoming an Islamic city with the influx of migrant laborers from former Soviet republics in Central Asia. I never though of Islam having a role in Russia, a country that is fervently Orthodox, but, in fact, Russia has a long history with Islam, and Kazan is just one of many Russian cities with a large and active Islamic community.

A model of the mosque inside the Kazan kremlin 

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