After a solid night's sleep, I got up, ate breakfast at my hostel (they have a standard breakfast of toast, bologna, cheese, and coffee for four Euros), and set off to explore more of Rome. I first went to the Via Veneto, which was impressive in its stately, money-drenched elegance. As I was walking along the Via Veneto, I noticed a museum called the Capuchin Crypt, and, having no real plans for the day, decided to check it out. I paid my admission fee and entered the museum, which was a small but nice place dedicated to a particular order of the Catholic Church. I was moderately interested by the displays of monks' robes and drinking vessels, but I didn't expect what was coming next. The real attraction of the place--something I didn't know--is the crypt, which is decorated with the bones of 3,700 skeletons of Capuchin friars. Pictures weren't allowed, but the internet furnished me with this one:
It was certainly a powerful experience and a macabre one, to say the least.
Next I visited the large Villa Borghese park. It was a beautiful, sunny, warm day, and there were tons of people out strolling, running, and riding bikes around the park. It was so nice to see a well-designed park--landscape design is one area that Russia really neglects. Also, the veritable parade of runners really surprised me; you just don't see people outside exercising in Russia. I rented a bike and rode around the park for an hour or two.
After my bike ride, I headed for Piazza del Popolo. I had studied this piazza and its formation and role in Rome's network of streets during one of my architecture classes, so I was very excited to see it. I think it is my favorite public space in Rome--its fountain is impressive, its scale perfect, and its surroundings endlessly fascinating. I spent a little while just taking in the scene and trying to sketch the piazza (I won't show those drawings).
The I went to Piazza Navona, which is another piazza we studied in my architecture class. I was initially disappointed: The whole piazza was full of vendors, and the place looked like a carnival. I left a little peeved. But later I realized that the ancient Romans probably would have done the same thing--people were using the space just as it had been intended to be used. You can't have public space in a dense city and expect people not to use it, after all.
I then headed back to my hostel and had dinner at a little pizzeria nearby. At the pizzeria, which I came to frequent, I met an American guy who teaches English in Prague. We talked about teaching, traveling, and our impressions of Rome. Outside of my group of colleagues, I haven't spoken to an American in a while!
At about 10pm I headed to the Vatican--it was Christmas Eve. The city was virtually empty, and walking the dark streets alone was almost a magical experience. There was a decent crowd on St. Peter's Square, and the Mass inside the basilica was already going. I watched big TV monitors and saw the Pope speak. I'll always remember the last hymn--the Latin version of "O Come all ye Faithful." I might not have been a candlelit version of "Silent Night" in my town's Presbyterian church, but it was powerfully beautiful.
Next I visited the large Villa Borghese park. It was a beautiful, sunny, warm day, and there were tons of people out strolling, running, and riding bikes around the park. It was so nice to see a well-designed park--landscape design is one area that Russia really neglects. Also, the veritable parade of runners really surprised me; you just don't see people outside exercising in Russia. I rented a bike and rode around the park for an hour or two.
After my bike ride, I headed for Piazza del Popolo. I had studied this piazza and its formation and role in Rome's network of streets during one of my architecture classes, so I was very excited to see it. I think it is my favorite public space in Rome--its fountain is impressive, its scale perfect, and its surroundings endlessly fascinating. I spent a little while just taking in the scene and trying to sketch the piazza (I won't show those drawings).
The I went to Piazza Navona, which is another piazza we studied in my architecture class. I was initially disappointed: The whole piazza was full of vendors, and the place looked like a carnival. I left a little peeved. But later I realized that the ancient Romans probably would have done the same thing--people were using the space just as it had been intended to be used. You can't have public space in a dense city and expect people not to use it, after all.
I then headed back to my hostel and had dinner at a little pizzeria nearby. At the pizzeria, which I came to frequent, I met an American guy who teaches English in Prague. We talked about teaching, traveling, and our impressions of Rome. Outside of my group of colleagues, I haven't spoken to an American in a while!
At about 10pm I headed to the Vatican--it was Christmas Eve. The city was virtually empty, and walking the dark streets alone was almost a magical experience. There was a decent crowd on St. Peter's Square, and the Mass inside the basilica was already going. I watched big TV monitors and saw the Pope speak. I'll always remember the last hymn--the Latin version of "O Come all ye Faithful." I might not have been a candlelit version of "Silent Night" in my town's Presbyterian church, but it was powerfully beautiful.
So pretty! We missed you at Christmas, but I'm betting your day was a little more eventful than ours.
ReplyDeleteIt would have been great to be there!
ReplyDelete