Thursday, January 9, 2014

Christmas Day in Rome is a quiet day, with most Romans at home with their families and many shops closed. I had even read that it can be a tough time to try to do any tourism in Rome--all museums are closed on the 25th. Knowing this, I planned a lighter day of sightseeing.

In actuality, Rome was definitely quieter, and many shops and cafes were closed, but it was still a great day to see the city. I started off with a walk to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. I had a tour scheduled for later on in my trip, so I didn't go inside either place, but I wanted to at least get a view of them. It's amazing to think that those stones and those arches have been in place for nearly 2,000 years!

After my visit, I walked around a cool neighborhood near Via Nazionale and found a little sidewalk cafe, where I ordered lasagna and espresso. Pretty nice that I could dine al fresco on Christmas day. I then went back to my hostel, rested for a bit (all that walking around gets tiring after a few days), and then went out to see a few notable churches.

I planned to go to Santa Maria della Vittoria first, but I stopped on the way at a giant, old ruin of a building marked "Basilica" on Piazza della Repubblica. Little did I realize that this huge structure was actually the remains of the Baths of Diocletian, ancient Rome's largest bath complex. The church today is huge and impressive, but I was more interested in the history of the baths and the story of the structure's transformation from a bacchanalian bathhouse to a lavish cathedral. In the sixteenth century several popes put Rome's best artists and architects--including Michelangelo--on the job of converting what had become a ruin into a testament to Christianity. I then went to Santa Maria della Vittoria, which is very close to the old bathhouse. I went in and saw the incredible statue Ecstasy of Teresa. What a sculpture!

I wanted to visit one more church near Piazza Navona, but it was closed, and I was getting hungry anyway, so I decided to look for somewhere to eat. Finding a place to eat in central Rome is insanely easy--every other window is a cafe--but finding somewhere to eat that an English teacher from Russia can afford is another story. At least the scenery is nice while you look at all the places you can't afford! I happened to find a bar that served imported American craft beers, and, driven by my long-deprived love a good beer (nothing of the sort exists in Russia), I stopped in and got a Sierra Nevada pale ale. I hadn't tasted hops in 18 months!

Refreshed and relaxed, I continued by search for a restaurant. I found a nice-looking place with heated outdoor seating and decided to go for it. My plan was to have two really nice meals while I was in Rome, so I didn't hold back. I ordered a tomato-basil pasta and a flank steak and topped it off with a small bottle of Chianti. Wow! what a Christmas dinner. I have never tasted meat so perfectly and flavorfully cooked, and the pasta was like nothing I have ever had. Bellissimo!

After my dinner, I took the long way back to my hostel. Nothing like Rome at night.

























     

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